Sunday, April23, 2017 L-36.com

Brummel Eye Splice Tail Bury



brummel/LL4U0065.JPG Out tail is 12 inches long and will cause the line we bury it in to shrink to 85% of its normal length. That would mean we need just over 14 inches of line to hold the 12 inch bury. Measure off 15 inches and make a mark.
brummel/LL4U0066.JPG Insert the dull pick in the standing part below the eye splice.
brummel/LL4U0067.JPG Tape the fid on the end of the line. I like to use a piece of 1/4 inch cooper tubing gently pounded into a bullet point by tapping on the end 100 times as I turn the tube around. You might like to use a commercial fid. Use smooth tape. Scotch tape works fine. The green masking tape works fine. The blue masking tape, not so fine.
brummel/LL4U0068.JPG Put the fid into the hole you made with your dull pick.
brummel/LL4U0069.JPG Work the fid and line through toward the standing part until you get to your mark and then bring the fid through the line.
brummel/LL4U0070.JPG Pull the tail all the way out, bunching up the rest of the line to make room. You need to bring out a bit more than 1/3 of the tail.
brummel/LL4U0073.JPG We want to taper 1/3 of the tail. The tail is 12 inches so we want to taper 4 inches. We are going to cut half the strands (6). mark every other pair, one right hand and one left hand strand. Mark 3 pairs.
brummel/LL4U0074.JPG Pull these strands out.
brummel/LL4U0075.JPG And cut them off. Some scissors have a very difficult time cutting Amsteel. People use exotic ceramic knives and sharpen them every few days. I use these Fiskars Children's scissors. Go figure. It is a nice touch to cut the last 6 strands at an angle just to relieve any small ridge you might otherwise notice in the finished splice. Kind of work you scissors down from a point about 1/2 inch from the end pointing at the end and the fibers will cut at a nice taper for just that last bit.

Splices are actually very strong, theoretically twice as strong as the line less any loss due to distortions the splice puts into the line and that occurs at the end of this taper. Most samples tested break at the end of the taper. If the taper is smooth enough, the splice will never break and the line will break at some random spot away from the splice. I say this just to point out that the taper is important.
brummel/LL4U0076.JPG Here is the tapered tail. I would taper it more that what I have shown to make the taper more gradual. One way to do that is to unbraid the last inch or so and cut the strands that way. I believe it is the taper that determines if the splice is 90% or 100% of line strength. That said, most sailing applications are looking at stretch and not strength so it may not be that important.
brummel/LL4U0078.JPG Milk the body back over the tail and you are done.

Ad by Google

Disclaimer:
The information on this web site has not been checked for accuracy. It is for entertainment purposes only and should be independently verified before using for any other reason. There are five sources. 1) Documents and manuals from a variety of sources. These have not been checked for accuracy and in many cases have not even been read by anyone associated with L-36.com. I have no idea of they are useful or accurate, I leave that to the reader. 2) Articles others have written and submitted. If you have questions on these, please contact the author. 3) Articles that represent my personal opinions. These are intended to promote thought and for entertainment. These are not intended to be fact, they are my opinions. 4) Small programs that generate result presented on a web page. Like any computer program, these may and in some cases do have errors. Almost all of these also make simplifying assumptions so they are not totally accurate even if there are no errors. Please verify all results. 5) Weather information is from numerious of sources and is presented automatically. It is not checked for accuracy either by anyone at L-36.com or by the source which is typically the US Government. See the NOAA web site for their disclaimer. Finally, tide and current data on this site is from 2007 and 2008 data bases, which may contain even older data. Changes in harbors due to building or dredging change tides and currents and for that reason many of the locations presented are no longer supported by newer data bases. For example, there is very little tidal current data in newer data bases so current data is likely wrong to some extent. This data is NOT FOR NAVIGATION. See the XTide disclaimer for details. In addition, tide and current are influenced by storms, river flow, and other factors beyond the ability of any predictive program.