Whisker Pole

Whisker poles should be flown with the jaws facing down. When taking down a whisker pole, the jib sheet usually wants to drop down-and-out of the end fitting. Spinnaker poles are flown jaws facing up, as the spinnaker sheets usually want to lift up-and-out of the end fitting. The pole won’t know the difference but you may find it easier to set and take down with the ends in the proper orientation.

The pole should be flown level (Thus the need for mast track and cars!) and at the same relative angle to the wind as the main boom. In other words, the whisker pole should be out, opposite the boom at the same angle. As you pull in the mainsail, you would ease out the whisker pole and visa versa. As the pole comes back, the main goes out. Think of the whisker pole as an extension of your boom forward of the mast.

When the relative wind angle comes around, and the headsails leach begins to soften, or the pole is so far forward that the sail cannot set properly, it’s time to take down the whisker pole. You are now coming onto a "broad reach" and will not need the pole to keep the headsail filled. You should not fly a whisker pole on the same side as the main boom. Doing so may jeopardize the pole as your angle of heal may cause the outboard end of the pole to drag in the water.

Typical Deployment Sequence

Bear off so the headsail is kept out of the way while you are rigging the pole. Never try to set or take down a pole under load.

1. Ease the jib so that there is on pressure on the sheet.
2. Attach the topping lift to the outboard end fitting.
3. Detach the pole from the chocks.
4. Set the sheet into the outboard end being sure it will run freely.
5. Pick the pole up and attach it to the mast fitting and lay the pole on the lifelines.
6. Telescope the pole to the proper length. Note that you must be sure the topping lift is eased as you telescope the pole otherwise it will fight you!
7. "Top" the pole to the desired height with the topping lift and raise or lower the mast car so the pole is level.
8. Pull the jib back to the outboard end fitting.
9. Trim to course and you’re off!
10. Use the lazy sheet as a downhaul and forward guy by wrapping it round the forward deck cleat but not cleating it off. Control it from the cockpit.

As mentioned before, never attempt to deploy any pole against a full and drawing sail and a loaded sheet. You will loose the battle and possibly damage the pole, the boat or yourself! Always de-power the headsail and the sheets before setting the pole. This is why headsail furling comes in handy.

*To help in step 6 above, you should pre-measure and mark your furling line, the pole’s telescoping line and even your topping lift. Place a single magic marker (waterproof of course!) line for the #1 sail size, two magic marker lines for the #2 sail size, and so-on for as many different headsail size settings you wish. The same marks should be on the furling line and the topping lift. In this way, when you are setting the pole, you know how far to telescope it for the headsail size setting you have predetermined. It will make setting the pole much faster and you won’t be guessing how far to telescope it while doing the foredeck dance!

NOTE:

Never pull a pole back against a shroud or let it fly free against the headstay. This can dent or bend poles. Dents and bends in whisker poles due to hitting any stays are not covered under warranty. A dented pole may not telescope and be severely weakened.

Do not use any oils or spray lubricants on whisker pole end fittings or tubes.