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' Rutland 910 Fault Finding Manual'




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910 SERIES WINDCHARGER
MK1 MKII
FAULT FINDING No SM123
CONTENTS
1 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
a No Charge Current
b Intermittent Charge Current
c Low Charge Current
d Low Battery Voltage
e Overcharging
f High Output
g Excessive Vibration
h Turbine Not Turning
3 BEARING REPLACEMENT
a Hub Bearings
b Yaw Bearings
4 SPARE PARTS LIST
5 TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
Key to Components
a Internal Wiring Diagram With Choke
b Internal Wiring Diagram Without Choke
c Exploded View With Choke MKI MKII
d Exploded View Without Choke MKII
1 manual contains important information concerning fault finding repair of your 910 series is strongly recommended that you read this manual and
familiarise yourself with its
contents before commencing any procedures contained within this I and Mark II machines are covered in this manual The MkII can be recognised
by the rectangular blade fixing slots in the hub moulding as opposed to round in When turning the windcharger is capable of generating high voltages
Extreme
caution must be excerised at all times to aviod electric shock
2 No attempt to repair the system should be made until the wind generator is
restrained from turning
3 The windcharger is fitted with ceramic magnets which can be easily damaged by
heavy handling The main generator assembly should be treated with care
during transit and assembly
4 It is essential to observe the proper polarity when connnecting the windcharger
into an electrical circuit Reverse connection will damage the windcharger and
incorrect installation will invalidate the warranty
5 If in doubt refer to your dealer a competant electrical engineer or the
2 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
The following trouble shooting guide assumes that the
system has been installed in accordance with contained in the Rutland Windcharger 910
Series Owners making checks to the wind generator the warning printed in the introduction to
this manual Before removing any that the turbine is safely restrained NO CHARGE CURRENT
1 The output from the generator can be checked with
the machine still erected on the mounting pole by
connecting an ammeter in the circuit The ammeter will
only show a reading if there is sufficient wind blowing
ie above 5 mph Fig2
2 If there is no reading on the ammeter disconnect the
output leads from the battery and check the voltage by
connecting a DC voltmeter across the output leads from
the generator If the measured voltage is over 12 Volts
the wind turbine is performing correctly and indicates a
faulty battery or battery conntions Fig2
3 If no voltage is present across the generator output
leads connected to the battery check the output directly
from the two short wires from the generator Fig3 By
spinning the blades by hand a reading of 5 volts or that the generator is OK The fault could be in
the cables between the generator and battery set Check
the coninuity of the cables with an Ohms meter
4 If no voltage is present across the generator remove
the sideplate and check the condition of the brushes and
slipring This is the most common fault with the wind
turbine Ensure that the brush is touching the slipring If
not replace brushes Part No 917001 If the slipring is
dirty or contaminated with black deposits the brushes
may be sticking This can be cleaned suing very fine
emery paper Fig4
5 If the brush sliprings appear to have overheated this indicates that the battery has at
some time been connected the wrong way round
6 The rectifiers can also be checked using a multimeter with an Ohms scale suitable
for reading up to 100 Ohms Fig5
TEST METER LEAD RED METER LEAD BLACK READING OHMS
TO TERMINAL TO TERMINAL
1 6 5 1020
2 5 6 Infinity
3 6 1 1020
4 1 6 Infinity
5 5 7 1020
6 7 5 Infinity
7 1 7 1020
8 7 1 Infinity
9 6 7 4080
10 7 6 UNIT
Figure 5
1 6
7 5
7 To remove measure the main stator winding the two output wires from the end of the
generator shaft Ignore the two yellow wires leading to
the thermostat Measure the resistance of the main
winding When checking the winding resistance ensure
that the generator is absolutely stationery Fig6
MkI 910 Series Round blade sockets 12V 80
12V 60 in early 910 Series Rectangular blade socket 12V 20
24V 80
If the winding resistance is correct and the machine does
still not function contact the manufacturer or your dealer
b INTERMITTENT CHARGE out the checking procedure in Section 2a The
most common cause of intermittent charge is slipring or worn or damaged brushes
c LOW CHARGE CURRENT
1 Check that the battery is not Is the generator siting appropriate See Section 4 of
Owners Manual
3 Are all the blades correctly fitted See section 5 of
Owners Manual
4 Is the machine furling because of high winds
Applicable to Furlmatic models only
5 Is there sufficient wind ie above 5 mph
6 A faulty thermostat will not prevent unit however the output from the generator will restricted by either the choke to a maximum
of 2 Amps or the dual rectifier to 60 of the power To
check the thermostat remove the two yellow wires from
the hub shaft when the hub is cold check with an Ohms
meter scale for zero reading If the reading is the windings are hot or the thermostat is faulty
refer to the manufacturer or your dealer Fig7
7 A faulty choke is most unusual so check the solidity
of the terminals and condition of the coils before fitting A transient suppressor is fitted on top of the This device is fitted to prevent the
rectifier and causing damage If this unit is
faulty it will show signs of having been If no solution is found contact the manufacturer or
your dealer
d LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE
1 Check condition of batteries and battery Ensure the battery voltages are correctie 12 Volt or
24 Volt See section 4 910
Series Owners Manual
3 Check the battery discharge rate is not greater than
the charge current and capacity of the Refer to Section 2a if battery connections are correct
e If the battery voltages are over 147 Volts for a 12V
system and 294 Volts for a 24 Volt system the batteries
are being overcharged and a regulation device should be
fitted The wind turbine uses a Shunt Regulator Part
No If a regulator is fitted check the regulator fuse and
replace if blown with a 15 Amp 1 type If the
regulator does not warm up when the battery volts are
high return the regulator to the manufacturer or HIGH OUTPUT HIGH WINDS Furlmatic is designed to furl out of the wind in very
strong winds above 40 mph If the machine does not furl
out the batteries may be damaged through Check that the tail rotates freely on its brushes If
stiff grease may be applied to free tail
2 Check tail is fitted correctly Section 5b of the
Owners Manual
3 If the machine continues not to furl consult or your VIBRATION or turbine is designed to run silently but in strong
winds some blade noise may occur This is quite normal
due to the high rpm of the turbine
1 Check that all guy ropes are tight
2 Check that the machine is secured on the Check for tightness of all nuts and bolts
4 Ensure that the blades are fitted correctly Refer to
Section 5 of the Owners Manual
5 Check blades for damage If any damage is found
replace the blade available from your dealer or The machine will run balanced with 3
blades until the replacement is fitted Fig8
h TURBINE NOT TURNING
1 Is there sufficient wind to turn the blades ie above 5
2 Check for a short circuit in the system
3 Check that the generator is running freely
4 If the turbine is not running freely see that the
generator is not touching the windshaft housing If this
is the problem remove the inspection cover hub so that it can rotate freely and tighten the two
bolts locking the shaft into position Fig9
In the unlikely event that you encounter any problems
with your windcharger our technical sales staff will be
happy to advise you on any of these procedures or any
other queries that you may have
3 BEARING HUB hub bearings can be the cause of vibration This can be checked by moving the
wind shaft from side to side If there is excessive movement this indicates The removal of the hub bearings allows the stator winding item 2 to be
changed Study the exploded view for your particular machine to familiarise yourself
with the components before offering hubs towards each other they will be attracted together by a force capable of severely damaging reassembling it
is essential the indents on the mating face of each hub half
line up with each other When the hub is apart care should be taken to ensure
that no steel or magnetic particles are picked up by the magnet It is to make sure that the magnets are clean before Remove the blades Two screws
per blade on Mk1 machines and four screws per
blade on MkII machines
2 Remove the side cover plate and remove wires from the choke and from the
rectifier Machines fitted with twin rectifiers remove wires from the Slacken the wto shaft locking screws item 21 and slide the hub out of the wind
shaft support casting item 5
4 Remove the six screws item 17 joining the hub halves together Insert two screws
item 17 in the back of the hub Gradually turn the screws jacking the two hub
halves apart Once the hub is part the stator can be The hub halves are very strong magnets and should be handled with
extreme care
5 The bearings are held on the shaft by loctite Grade 648 and into the hub by loctite
Grade 641 It is most essential that loctite be used
6 The bearings can be removed with a suitable bearing puller
7 Before replacing the bearings remove all the loctite deposits from the shaft and
bearings This is most important to allow the halves to join properly
8 Once assembled allow at least 1 hour for the loctite to harden before turning the
shaft
b YAW yaw bearings can be the cause of vibration This can be checked by moving the
tail fin up and down with the machine mounted on its pole Fig10 indicates worn bearings The removal of the pole casting item 3 from the
wind shaft support casting item 5 allows the bearings to be renewed of the slipring
1 Remove the inspection cover and remove the brushes from the brush holders
2 Remove the M5 locking screw from the side of the wind shaft support casting item
3 Gently heat the wind shaft support casting with a hot gun direct heat away from
the wind shaft housing to prevent damage to the paint
4 With a soft mallet tap the pole casting until it is free from its housing
5 Unsolder the output wires red and black from the top of the slipring
6 The slipring can now be removed by placing the ring in a soft jaw vice and gently
tapping the pole casting until the loctite seal is broken
7 Remove the circlip with circlip pliers
8 Finally remove the bearings with a suitable bearing puller
9 Replacing the bearings is the reversal of removing with the addition that the slip
ring must be fitted with loctite Grade 648

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