' Rutland 910 Fault Finding Manual'
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910 SERIES WINDCHARGER
MK1 & MKII
FAULT FINDING MANUAL
Document No. SM-123
2. TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
a No Charge Current
b Intermittent Charge Current
c Low Charge Current
d Low Battery Voltage
f High Output
g Excessive Vibration
h Turbine Not Turning
3. BEARING REPLACEMENT
a Hub Bearings
b Yaw Bearings
4. SPARE PARTS LIST
5. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
Key to Components
a Internal Wiring Diagram With Choke
b Internal Wiring Diagram Without Choke
c Exploded View With Choke MKI & MKII
d Exploded View Without Choke MKII
This manual contains important information concerning fault finding, maintenance
and repair of your 910 series windcharger.
It is strongly recommended that you read this manual and familiarise yourself with its
contents before commencing any procedures contained within this document.
Mark I and Mark II machines are covered in this manual. The MkII can be recognised
by the rectangular blade fixing slots in the hub moulding as opposed to round in the
1. When turning, the windcharger is capable of generating high voltages. Extreme
caution must be excerised at all times to aviod electric shock.
2. No attempt to repair the system should be made until the wind generator is
restrained from turning.
3. The windcharger is fitted with ceramic magnets which can be easily damaged by
heavy handling. The main generator assembly should be treated with care
during transit and assembly.
4. It is essential to observe the proper polarity when connnecting the windcharger
into an electrical circuit. Reverse connection will damage the windcharger and
incorrect installation will invalidate the warranty.
5. If in doubt refer to your dealer, a competant electrical engineer or the
2. TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
The following trouble shooting guide assumes that the
system has been installed in accordance with the
instructions contained in the Rutland Windcharger 910
Series Owners Manual.
When making checks to the wind generator system,
observe the warning printed in the introduction to
this manual. Before removing any components,
ensure that the turbine is safely restrained from
a NO CHARGE CURRENT
1. The output from the generator can be checked with
the machine still erected on the mounting pole by
connecting an ammeter in the circuit. The ammeter will
only show a reading if there is sufficient wind blowing
i.e. above 5 mph (Fig.2.).
2. If there is no reading on the ammeter, disconnect the
output leads from the battery and check the voltage by
connecting a DC voltmeter across the output leads from
the generator. If the measured voltage is over 12 Volts
the wind turbine is performing correctly and indicates a
faulty battery or battery conntions (Fig.2).
3. If no voltage is present across the generator output
leads connected to the battery, check the output directly
from the two short wires from the generator (Fig.3). By
spinning the blades by hand a reading of 5 volts or more
indicates that the generator is OK. The fault could be in
the cables between the generator and battery set. Check
the coninuity of the cables with an Ohms meter.
4. If no voltage is present across the generator, remove
the sideplate and check the condition of the brushes and
slipring. This is the most common fault with the wind
turbine. Ensure that the brush is touching the slipring. If
not, replace brushes (Part No. 917-001). If the slipring is
dirty or contaminated with black deposits, the brushes
may be sticking. This can be cleaned suing very fine
emery paper (Fig.4).
5. If the brush sliprings appear to have overheated this indicates that the battery has at
some time been connected the wrong way round.
6. The rectifier(s) can also be checked using a multimeter with an Ohms scale suitable
for reading up to 100 Ohms (Fig.5).
TEST METER LEAD RED METER LEAD BLACK READING OHMS
TO TERMINAL TO TERMINAL
1 6 5 10-20
2 5 6 Infinity
3 6 1 10-20
4 1 6 Infinity
5 5 7 10-20
6 7 5 Infinity
7 1 7 10-20
8 7 1 Infinity
9 6 7 40-80
10 7 6 Infinity
7. To remove measure the main stator winding resistence
remove the two output wires from the end of the
generator shaft. (Ignore the two yellow wires leading to
the thermostat). Measure the resistance of the main
winding. When checking the winding resistance ensure
that the generator is absolutely stationery (Fig.6).
MkI 910 Series. Round blade sockets. 12V 8.0
(12V - 6.0 in early machines)
MkII 910 Series. Rectangular blade socket 12V 2.0
If the winding resistance is correct and the machine does
still not function contact the manufacturer or your dealer.
b. INTERMITTENT CHARGE CURRENT
Carry out the checking procedure in Section 2a. The
most common cause of intermittent charge is a
contaminated slipring or worn or damaged brushes.
c. LOW CHARGE CURRENT
1. Check that the battery is not defective.
2. Is the generator siting appropriate? (See Section 4 of
3. Are all the blades correctly fitted? (See section 5 of
4. Is the machine furling because of high winds?
(Applicable to Furlmatic models only).
5. Is there sufficient wind, i.e. above 5 mph?
6. A faulty thermostat will not prevent unit from
charging, however the output from the generator will be
permanently restricted by either the choke to a maximum
of 2 Amps or the dual rectifier to 60% of the power. To
check the thermostat remove the two yellow wires from
the hub shaft when the hub is cold, check with an Ohms
meter scale for zero reading. If the reading is infinite
either the windings are hot or the thermostat is faulty,
refer to the manufacturer or your dealer (Fig.7).
7. A faulty choke is most unusual so check the solidity
of the terminals and condition of the coils before fitting a
7. A transient suppressor is fitted on top of the slipring
assembly. This device is fitted to prevent transients
reaching the rectifier and causing damage. If this unit is
faulty it will show signs of having been overheated.
8. If no solution is found contact the manufacturer or
d. LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE
1. Check condition of batteries and battery connections.
2. Ensure the battery voltages are correct,i.e. 12 Volt or
24 Volt. (See section 4, Pre-Assembly-Batteries - 910
Series Owners Manual)
3. Check the battery discharge rate is not greater than
the charge current and capacity of the batteries.
4. Refer to Section 2a, if battery connections are correct.
1. If the battery voltages are over 14.7 Volts for a 12V
system and 29.4 Volts for a 24 Volt system, the batteries
are being over-charged and a regulation device should be
fitted. The wind turbine uses a Shunt Regulator (Part
2. If a regulator is fitted check the regulator fuse and
replace if blown with a 15 Amp 1¼" type. If the
regulator does not warm up when the battery volts are
high, return the regulator to the manufacturer or your
f. HIGH OUTPUT (HIGH WINDS FURLMATIC
The Furlmatic is designed to furl out of the wind in very
strong winds above 40 mph. If the machine does not furl
out the batteries may be damaged through overcharging.
1. Check that the tail rotates freely on its brushes. If
stiff, grease may be applied to free tail.
2. Check tail is fitted correctly (Section 5b of the
3. If the machine continues not to furl, consult the
manufacturer or your dealer.
g.EXCESSIVE VIBRATION (or TOWER
The turbine is designed to run silently but in strong
winds some blade noise may occur. This is quite normal
due to the high rpm of the turbine.
1. Check that all guy ropes are tight.
2. Check that the machine is secured on the tower
3. Check for tightness of all nuts and bolts.
4. Ensure that the blades are fitted correctly. (Refer to
Section 5 of the Owners Manual).
5. Check blades for damage. If any damage is found
replace the blade available from your dealer or the
manufacturers. The machine will run balanced with 3
blades until the replacement is fitted. (Fig.8).
h. TURBINE NOT TURNING
1. Is there sufficient wind to turn the blades i.e. above 5
2. Check for a short circuit in the system.
3. Check that the generator is running freely.
4. If the turbine is not running freely see that the
generator is not touching the windshaft housing. If this
is the problem remove the inspection cover. Reposition
the hub so that it can rotate freely and tighten the two
bolts, locking the shaft into position (Fig.9).
In the unlikely event that you encounter any problems
with your windcharger, our technical sales staff will be
happy to advise you on any of these procedures or any
other queries that you may have.
3. BEARING REPLACEMENT
a. HUB BEARINGS
Worn hub bearings can be the cause of vibration. This can be checked by moving the
wind shaft from side to side. If there is excessive movement this indicates worn
bearings. The removal of the hub bearings allows the stator winding (item 2) to be
changed. Study the exploded view for your particular machine to familiarise yourself
with the components before starting.
When offering hubs towards each other they will be attracted together by a large
magnetic force capable of severely damaging fingers.
When re-assembling it is essential the indents on the mating face of each hub half
line up with each other. When the hub is apart care should be taken to ensure
that no steel or magnetic particles are picked up by the magnet. It is also
essential to make sure that the magnets are clean before re-assembly.
1. Remove the blades. Two screws per blade on Mk1 machines and four screws per
blade on MkII machines.
2. Remove the side cover plate and remove wires from the choke and from the
rectifier. Machines fitted with twin rectifiers remove wires from the rectifiers.
3. Slacken the wto shaft locking screws (item 21) and slide the hub out of the wind
shaft support casting (item 5).
4. Remove the six screws (item 17) joining the hub halves together. Insert two screws
(item 17) in the back of the hub. Gradually turn the screws jacking the two hub
halves apart. Once the hub is part the stator can be removed.
WARNING! The hub halves are very strong magnets and should be handled with
5. The bearings are held on the shaft by loctite Grade 648 and into the hub by loctite
Grade 641. It is most essential that loctite be used.
6. The bearings can be removed with a suitable bearing puller.
7. Before replacing the bearings remove all the loctite deposits from the shaft and
bearings. This is most important, to allow the halves to join properly.
8. Once assembled allow at least 1 hour for the loctite to harden before turning the
b YAW BEARINGS
Worn yaw bearings can be the cause of vibration. This can be checked by moving the
tail fin up and down with the machine mounted on its pole (Fig.10). Excessive
movement indicates worn bearings. The removal of the pole casting (item 3) from the
wind shaft support casting (item 5), allows the bearings to be renewed and
replacement of the slipring.
1. Remove the inspection cover and remove the brushes from the brush holders.
2. Remove the M5 locking screw from the side of the wind shaft support casting (item
3. Gently heat the wind shaft support casting with a hot gun, (direct heat away from
the wind shaft housing to prevent damage to the paint).
4. With a soft mallet tap the pole casting until it is free from its housing.
5. Unsolder the output wires (red and black) from the top of the slipring.
6. The slipring can now be removed by placing the ring in a soft jaw vice and gently
tapping the pole casting until the loctite seal is broken.
7. Remove the circlip with circlip pliers.
8. Finally, remove the bearings with a suitable bearing puller.
9. Replacing the bearings is the reversal of removing with the addition that the slip-
ring must be fitted with loctite Grade 648.
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