L-36.com

Papoose Wiring Project

The start of a plan to rewire Papoose
After round one of stripping out the most obvious of the unused wires I am starting with this:

Switche panel

Fuse area
Back of switches
Recomended wire gauges:
Ground and hot to distribution panel: 2 each #8
Ignition and ammeter: #10
Cabin Lights:
Running Lights:
Blower: #12

Fuse Sizes:
1a) Gally:
1b) Auto Pilot:
1c) Mast Light:
1d) Spreader Lights:

2a)?
2b) Side Lights
2c) Radio:
2d) Bildge blower


3a) Bildge Pump:
3b) Accessory outlet (GPS)
3c) Knot Meter:

Shared:
Stern Light: comes from spreader fuse

Unfused: 
Ignition and starter solenoid



Day 2 wire removals

Two non-operative switches that went to unused wiring were removed.

Leaving two holes where the switches were.
Lots of other wires were removed that led to speakers, and power to places that no longer had lamps, like the forward V berth which was once a sleeping area and is now a sail storage and changing area. No lights up there.
List of switch Currents:
Ignition: 2.5, OL (>10) when starter button pushed.
Running Lights: 2.0
Stern: 0.6
Bow: non-existant
Mast: 1.0
Spreader: 2.0 but one lamp is out so will be 4.0 
Binnacle: 0, went to an old plug that is unusable.
Blower: 2.1
Small bildge pump: 2.0

Note 1:  The ignition is not fused.  Goes straight to the battery selector switch output.
Note 2: The red lables on the fuses are wrong.

Thoughts on new fused circuits:
  1. Auto Pilot
  2. Marine Radio
  3. Cabin Lights
  4. Running Lights
  5. Stern Light
  6. Mast Light
  7. Knot Meter
  8. GPS
  9. Spreader Lights
  10. Bildge Blower
There is an error in the above. I now have 10 fuses and have completely eliminated both of the old small fuse panels. I have the large 4 slot fuse panel and the new 6 slot one, which is now full. I have the bildge pump fused and that is not counted above, thus the error. Next step is to figure out what fuse does what.
Not on battery switch:
  1. Battery 1: Bildge Pump 1
  2. Battery 2: Bildge Pump 2
New switches:
  1. Instrument (compuss) lights

Here is a site to calculate wire size requirements
I am now looking for a crimp tool that can make a crimp like this:

I will probably get this one:


As this one does not say it will work with insulated crimps where the one above does. Besides, it is really cheap.

cleaned up front


Cleaned up back

I posted this for my own use. Please don't use it unless you verify that it is correct. Alterniatively, you can go HERE and blame them if it is wrong.

Voltage Drop in Conductor - Wire Sizing Chart

  1. Calculate the maximum sustained amperage of the circuit. Measure the length of the circuit from the power source to the load and back.
  2. Decide whether the circuit runs in an engine space or non engine space. Engine spaces are assumed to be at 50 degrees C, non engine spaces are assumed to be at 30 degrees C.
  3. Multiply the maximum current times the length of the circuit to calculate Famps (Feet x amps).
  4. Base the wire on either the 3% or 10% voltage drop. In general, items which affect the safe operation of the boat and its passengers (running lights, bilge blowers, electronics and distribution panel supply circuits) use 3%; all other loads use 10% (cabin lights, bait pumps).
  5. Starting in the column which has the right voltage and voltage drop shown at the top, run down the list of numbers until arriving at a value which is greater than the calculated Famps. Move left to the Ampacity column to verify that the total amperage of the circuit does not exceed the maximum allowable amperage of the wire size for that row. If it does, move down until the wire ampacity exceeds the circuit amperage. Finally, move left to the wire size column to select the wire size.

    Examples
    a. A 12 volt system at 10% drop with a 40’ circuit x 45 amps = 1800 Famps. A wire size of 8 is required.
    b. A 24 volt system at 3% drop with a 10’ circuit x 100 amps = 1000 Famps. A wire size of 6 is required.



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