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Force 10 Heater Instruction Manual




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FORCE 10
COZY CABIN MANUAL AND WARRANTY
INTRODUCTION
SAFETY AND INSTALLATION
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
REPAIRING THE BURNER
CHECK PROCEDURE
REMOVAL OF BURNER FOR SERVICING
TESTING
LIMITED you for selection the FORCE 10 Cozy Cabin Heater Your unit was carefully inspected and tested at our
factory We take pride in producing one of the finest heaters manufactured for marine of the continuing refinement of our product designs your heater
may posses features that are not
discussed in the manual We have tried to supply all the information you might need so please take time to
read this manual before installing and using your Cozy Cabin 10 advises strongly against unauthorized modification of this product but we do
encourage you to
correct problems which may arise by undertaking the simple repairs and maintenance described in the manual
The most important reason to read this manual is that many of its instructions are essential to the of your Cozy Cabin any questions arise requiring
personal help we ask that you contact your dealer or Force 10 quoting
both the model and serial number printed on the product label
We welcome any opportunity to be of assistance
FORCE 10 MARINE LTD
23080 Hamilton Road
Richmond BC Canada V6V 1C9
Tel 604 5220233
Fax 604 or advice given by Force 10 Marine Ltd or any of its employees is solely to the customer and should not be relied upon by the customer
without verification of its applicability to the customers particular AND Cozy Cabin Heater Model 10004 is designed to be fueled only by
pressurized diesel or kerosene fuel
One US gallon of fuel will provide roughly 24 hours of burning depending on your tank with Your Heater
Deck Cap Assembly
1 Top Deck Cap wGuard
1 Bottom Deck Cap
1 Inside Finishing Ring
2 Chimney Washers 4 Feet Spacers
Spare Parts Kit
1 Burner Wrench
1 Blue Plastic Funnel
1 Senior Parts of Heater in Cabin
1 Choose a convenient location for optimum circulation but not where someone might accidentally touch
2 The best height is such that the top is approximately 36 off the floor in a boat with 72 headroom It is
better closer to the ground than the bulkhead
3 Allow a safe distance between the sides and the bottom of the heater and combustible materials
Usually 6 is sufficient but if in doubt protect combustible material with metal andor insulating type
material such as ceramic tile
4 If the heater is mounted such that the stack length or clearance of combustible material above the
heater is less than 24 the overhead surface should be protected with metal andor insulating type
material such as ceramic tile
5 Place the insulating washers between the feet of the heater and the mounting surface This is all the
protection neccessary on normal bulkheads However if the bulkhead is painted or is soft vinyl a
stainless steel sheet larger than the area covered by the heater should also be installed This would
create further protection from heat Hard insulation material behind the stainless steel
sheet would also be recommended
6 Screw heater in place temporarily It will be necessary to remove it to install the of Deck Cap and Stack
You must exhaust the heater to the exterior to avoid carbon monoxide Diagram 1
1 Drill a 2 hole in the cabin for the stack to pass through
1 Note Stack is not supplied in this kit as every installation is different no need to ship 6 if you
only need 2 of stack The stack material is 1 OD outer diameter ornamental stainless steel
tubing available from your dealer or boat builder It is the same pipe used to make pulpits and
railings 1OD 78 IDinside diameter If you are bending your stack remember to take into
account the radius of your bend in determining the overall length Do NOT bend more than 45
at any one bend
2 Fabricate a round wooden ring approximately 12 to 34 inches thick with a 2 hole drilled through the
middle on which to mount the deck cap A thread winch pad is ideal and available from local marine
dealers
3 Using suitable bedding compound screw the dec cap and wooden ring in place using one of the white
gaskets supplied as an insulator between the cap and the ring
4 Determine the length of the stack required by measuring the distance between the top of the heater and
half way up into the deck cap stack should not contact cabin top The stack may be bent up to a 45
angle with a 5 radius or more to bypass deck beams or other obstructions an electricians conduit
bender does a good job You can easily make a mockup using residential copper wire pipe before you
bend the real thing
5 The maximum recommended length of stack is 10 If there are bends in the stack remove 18 from the
maximum length for every bend
6 Cut the stack to proper length remove the heater place the stack up into the deck rain cap Install
interior finishing ring with cone pointing downward ensuring That the stack does not contact the cone
and placing the other white gasket between the finishing ring and the cabin head liner
7 Replace the heater and fasten it permanently remembering to reinstall the the protective washers
between the feet of the heater and the mounting of the Fuel Tank
The tank must be mounted vertically ie fittings on top away from any sources of excessive heat or vibration
and preferably lower than the heater It should be located such that the operating instructions and gauge are
easily visible and there is sufficient access room to refill the of the Fuel Line
We recommend 14 rubber hose for flexibility and safety It is available from your dealer or local plumber Soft
copper tubing may also be used but can kink more readily than rubber Connect the hose to the heater and
tank with flare nuts which are provided with both the heater and the Force 10 fuel tank Measure the length of
hose or copper tubing you require If you decide to use copper have the plumber flare both ends of the tubing
to the fuel line using one 916 open wrench on the flare nut and one 716 wrench on the fitting on the
burner Do not use any pipe dope or Teflon tape etc but make a proper flare A good flare on a copper pipe
will hold 1500 Pressure Test
Before filling your tank first pressurize it empty to 30 psi or 2 atm and check all fittings of the installation for
leaks Use a solution of 12 liquid detergent and 12 water and a small brush Brush the solution liberally over
each connection The appearance of bubbles will indicate a leak Repair leaks if any Leave pressurized for
one hour and check to ensure that the pressure remains constant If not repeat the soapy water test on Also check the burner with soapy Read these
instructions carefully before attempting to operate the heater and you preheat your burner or pressurize your tank familiarize yourself with the
burner Turn the burner
handle to the left This is the CLEANING position and you will observe the pricker coming through the nipple right in the center of the burner If the
burner plugs up during burning you
can use the cleaning cycle but do not use force as it will be hot and expanded and it is possible to jam the
pricker in the cleaning position There is no air calibration to set on this burner Note that burners using diesel
or kerosene fuel require more preheating than alcohol The first few times you operate your heater observe the unit running at full output and ensure
that no
materials in the vicinity of the heater are being overheated Re examine the installation to ensure that no
drapes or curtains or combustible materials may come in contact with the heater or stack when the boat is
heeled over or rocking the Tank
1 Fill the tank approximately 34 full of clean filtered fuel Dirty fuel will eventually plug up the burner so
use a screened funnel If you do not have a screened funnel pour the fuel through a clean cloth
2 Check the burner to be sure it is turned OFF
3 Using a bicycle pump pressurize the tank to approximately 30 psi or 2 atm
4 For a cleaner burning heater add 1 part mineral spirits to 4 parts the Fuel Lines
This procedure is necessary the first time the heater is used or if you have allowed the tank to run dry of the heater thus emptying the fuel line To
save yourself extra work always check to ensure there
is sufficient fuel in the tank before operating the heater All the air in the fuel line must be bled out to light the burner This is accomplished as
follows
1 Turn the control knob approximately 14 turn to the left or until you are able to hear
the air hissing out of the burner
2 Leave the knob in this position and watch the small orifice in the center of the burner
3 The hissing sound will continue for a while depending on the length of your line Continue to watch the
orifice until a small stream of fuel is seen shooting up This can take approximately 1 to 2 minutes
4 When the fuel is seen immediately shut the burner off and follow normal lighting procedure Wipe off
any fuel on the burner or you will get a smell during and Lighting the Burner
1 Pour at least one ounce of alcohol into the burner cup and light Note until you gauge how much
alcohol to use always use too much Allow the alcohol to burn out completely Proceed with lighting the
burner Turn the control knob to the center position and light immediately There is no set HiMedLow
position so familiarize yourself with the flame and where the cleaning cycle is see point 4 Never
operate your burner in the cleaning cycle
2 If the burner lights with a tall orangeyellow flame shut the burner off right away and preheat again It
may have been drafty in your galley so the alcohol flame did not heat your burner adequately
Remember a hot burner lights readily whereas a cool burner will flare up A correct flame is short
nonsmelling blue flame
3 If you have to preheat your burner a second time first allow it it to cool for a minute or two before
adding more alcohol if you pour alcohol on a hot burner it will evaporate instantly and the alcohol
fumes could create a flare up Safety first allow burner to cool add more alcohol then relight
4 When you are ready to turn off your heater turn the handle fully to the cleaning cycle
Leave in this position for 1 minute This will allow your burner to cool down and clean the nipple to
prevent coking inside the something goes wrong with the operation of your Cozy Cabin Heater do not despair Read this for possible causes and Force
10 directly or consult your dealer if these suggestions do not resolve the problem
The Burner Burns with a Yellow Smokey Flame
1 The burner was not preheated enough Turn off the burner and preheat again with alcohol Be careful
when putting alcohol on a hot burner Make sure the flame is completely out wait at least one minute
after the burner is turned off
2 If you often have problems with not getting the burner hot enough try this trick Take an empty can
about 3 4 in diameter Remove the top and bottom of the can and place it around the preheating
burner this will contain the heat and prevent any draft
3 Perhaps you used methyl hydrate alcohol which contains 40 water We recommend that you use
only denatured alcohol which burns quite a bit hotter
4 If your flame is blue with yellow tips it may be that the inner cap is not properly seated Remove the
outer cap and push the inner cap all the way down
5 If you want to start your burner in rough weather and have trouble keeping the alcohol cup full you can
use alcohol paste available in some marine stores
6 The fuel line may not have been purged Therefore when you turn the burner on after preheating all
you get is air for some time When fuel finally arrives at the burner the burner may have cooled off
enough that it produces a yellow flame We suggest that you purge the line first before preheating by
opening the burner and watching the nipple until liquid fuel appears Wipe off the excess fuel before
Burner Flame is Blue on One Side and Yellow on the Other
1 You may have carbon buildup in your nipple Turn the control knob to the clean cycle a few times This
should clear the orifice If the problem persists try switching to a different fuel Buy fuel that is as clear
as possible and always filter your fuel
2 Your outer or inner caps are not on straight or they may have carbon deposits on
them Wipe them clean and install them straight Caution Be sure the burner is cool before handling or
use oven mitts
3 You may have a nipple with a bad pricker Replace the pricker by following the instructions in Repairing
the Burner
No Fuel is Getting to Your Burner
1 Check fuel level in tank
2 Pressure gauge may be faulty Check pressure using a tire gauge on the air fitting Replace the
pressure gauge if necessary
3 For installations where a long fuel line is used we install a restrictor in the bottom of the burner in the
burner fitting This is to prevent surging of the burner This restrictor may be plugged so follow
instructions in Repairing the Burner
The Flame Shrinks after Burning for a While
1 Some fuels contain more carbon than others If you use yellow coloured fuel it has a higher content of
carbon This carbon will build up at the end of the spindle inside the burner restricting the flow of
vaporized fuel You can fix this by tapping the burner with a screwdriver or other utensil This will knock
off the carbon build up If a large piece of carbon is blocking the orifice turn the control knob to the
clean cycle to unplug the orifice Note If you operate the unit with clear fuel you will eliminate this
problem 75 of the time
2 There is not enough pressure from the tank Check to make sure the pressure gauge is working by
using a tire gauge The minimum pressure required is a constant 10 psi Running the fuel straight off a
fuel pump without a pressure tank will no work properly
3 Do not fill the tank to the top The less air in the tank the quicker the pressure will drop It is best to fill
the tank 34 full and then Leaks Slightly When Not in Use
1 The burner control knob may be in the clean position and not in the closed position
2 If the knob has more than 180 of turn your pricker will prevent the spindle from closing the burner
Look at the instructions in the repair kit to learn how to fix this problem
3 The spindle may be worn at the tapered point Inspect and replace if necessary Follow the instructions
in Repairing the Creates a Smell
1 You may be using inferior fuel
2 You may have a few small leaks around the burner connection which are not visible Use the
procedure in Repairing the Burner to find and repair the small leaks
The Flame is Continuously too Small
1 Test the pressure gauge on the tank with a tire gauge Replace the gauge if necessary Run the burner
between 10 and 20 psi or 34 to 1 12 atm
2 Your burner may be plugged up internally with carbon If cleaning does not help you may need to
replace the burner
3 If the control knob has only 90 of turn the pricker is not installed properly Refer to the directions in
Repairing the Burner
The Flame Surges or Jumps
1 The flame will surge if the burner is attached to the tank with more that 2 feet or 60cm of fuel line This
length creates uneven fuel pressure You may need a restrictor either in the base of the burner or at the
burner fitting
A Small Yellow Flame Burns around the End of the Handle
1 Tighten stuffing box nut with a crescent wrench about half a turn
2 If it does not want to tighten anymore replace the THE BURNER
Read over procedures before trying to repair your burner system See diagram 2 below for further detail Never
remove the entire burner from the stove or heater unless absolutely necessary Always attempt to fix it in
place as soon as the burner is removed it can be very difficult to reseal the bottom The only reason to ever
remove a burner is if the body of the burner is leaking very uncommon or if it is plugged with carbon
Diagram 2
Procedure For Dismantling The Burner
1 Ensure the pressure is released from the supply tank and the control knob is in the closed position
Clockwise
2 Turn and remove the two steel caps on the top of the burner Using the nozzle wrench remove the
nipple by inserting the wrench in through the top of the burner and unscrewing it Be sure to press down
firmly on the wrench
3 Open the control knob 14 turn until you can see the needle appear where the nipple was
4 Using a normal pencil with an eraser in the end drop it in the tip of the burner and push the eraser onto
the needle
5 Continue to open the control knob until the needle and the pricker are free and may be lifted out with
the pencil If the wire of the pricker is gone use a small screwdriver from the side
6 Remove the control knob by taking out the spring clip
7 Using a 10mm or small crescent wrench turn the stuffing box counter clockwise until it is free and can
be removed
8 Replace the control knob and turn the spindle counter clockwise until it is free and can be removed
9 Inspect all parts for damage or excessive carbon build up
Procedure For ReAssembling The Burner
1 With the washer packing and control knob on the spindle screw the spindle all the way until it stops
2 Remove the handle and put the stuffing box nut over the spindle
3 Using the stuffing box nut push the packing in until the thread on the stuffing box nut engages the
thread on the burner
4 Using a 10mm or small crescent wrench tighten the stuffing box nut until there is a perceptible drag felt
when turning the control knob This indicates it is compressing the packing against the shaft of the
spindle
5 Check the control handle is in the closed position all the way clockwise
6 Stick the pricker in the pencil With the control knob pointing towards you lower the pricker into the hole
with the teeth facing to the left Allow the pricker to rest on the spindle Keep a slight downward
pressure on the pencil and pricker and very slowly start opening the control knob counter clockwise
Continue to open it until you feel four distinct clicks of the pricker through the pencil This indicates you
have passed four teeth on the spindle
7 Close the control knob while keeping the slight downward pressure on the pencil This action will draw
the pricker into the burner
8 Replace the nipple using the nozzle wrench do not tighten it up hard until going through the check
procedure outlined later in this document
9 If the nipple keeps falling out of the wrench use a little grease to keep it in the PROCEDURE
A correctly assembled burner has about 135 of turn on the control knob from fully closed to the end of the
clean cycle between 12 and 14 turn If the burner has more or less turn it indicates the teeth on the pricker
have engaged the wrong teeth on the Procedure
If the burner has only 90 or one quarter turn on the knob this will cause the burner just to burn with a the Remove the nipple and open the control
knob until the pencil can be placed on the
pricker Keep a slight downward pressure on the pencil and continue to open the control knob until you feel the
pricker jump one more tooth Close the valve clockwise Reassemble and the burner has 180 or onehalf turn on the knob this condition will cause the
burner to leak slightly when
fully closed as the pricker contacts the inside bottom of the burner before the control knob has turned far
enough to close
Turn burner to closed position clockwise Remove the nipple and open the control knob counter the pencil can be placed on the pricker Keep a slight
upward pull on the pencil and continue to slowly
open the control knob CC until the pricker is released From this exact point where the control knob released
the pricker lift the pricker about a quarter inch and turn the control knob clockwise very slightly Only enough
to pass one more tooth on the spindle and reinsert the pricker Close the control knob all the way will draw the pricker in and replace the nozzle and
go through the check procedures again
You must correct the amount of turn between 12 and 14 turn or you are wasting your time and your burner
will not work properly so have patience and repeat the procedures if you now have the correct amount of turn on the control knob tighten up the
nozzle
If you have removed your burner from your stove or heater and you reinstalled it drain your tank pressurize the whole system with air only Now test
all your with soapy water and a small
brush If you see bubbles you have a leak that needs to be leaks can be dangerous and evaporated liquid fuel can cause headaches So be safe and make
sure
there are no leaks in your system
Shut Off Valves
Force 10 does not include shutoff valves in their tanks as they are dangerous People sometimes turn off the
shutoff valves while everything is under pressure The next time the burner is preheated and the user has
forgotten to open the shutoff valve the pressurized liquid fuel in the line and burner may come under very high
pressure because of preheating the burner This often blows holes in the burner if no shutoff valve exists the
excess pressure is taken up by the air cushion in the tank We recommend releasing the air pressure in the
tank as better alternative to a shutoff valve when not on OF THE BURNER FOR SERVICING
If Your Tank is Lower Than Your Heater
1 Release pressure by carefully releasing the set screw located on the filler cap gauge on the tank
2 Turn burner knob to open position to allow fuel line to drain
3 Use a 916 open end wrench to take off the flare nut while holding the fitting with a 716 open end
wrench
4 Remove burner using a 34 open end wrench on the burner securing nut holding the burner securely
with your hand to prevent it from swiveling Apply force only to the case nut on the base of the burner
Never try to twist the burner burner was removed from the heater it must be tested for leaks once it is fuel tank completely and pressurize the
whole system with air only Test all connections with soapy water
and a small brush It is a good idea to retest all connections at this same time If you see bubbles there are
leaks that will need to be corrected Even small leaks can be dangerous If you have a leak near your burner
the heat will evaporate the liquid fuel and create a smell
Diagram 3

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