An inhauler, sometimes called a Barberhauler, is used to pull the jib sheets inboard from their normal position. You can do that to decrease the sheeting angle or to keep the sheeting angle the same as you let the sheets out to add fullness. We do that when we need more power to drive through the waves. In flat water, we don't use it and the rings just sit on the sheets without load. I actually have twings setup on these sheets and the rings is used by the twings as well. The rings I use are very light so they do not harm the paint on the deck. They are descending ring are from REI and their 5,000 pound rating, typical of climbing equipment, is ideal for my boat. Low friction yacht rings work as well but are more expensive. At one time I used carabiners with wire gates. They will grab stuff. If you are going to use carabiners, use locking ones. Some of the pictures below are older and show carabiners.
This is generation 3 of my inhauler setup. It is easier to use than previous setups because there is a single control point. The 8:1 purchase seems ideal for the job and the fact that one control line works both port and starboard is a great advantage. Once balanced, you are automatically maintain your trim after a tack. I like to rig my double block so the line is against the deck instead of the face. You can see that in the pictures below.
I should note that a jib needs to be cut for an inhauler. Ideally, the clew should be at cabin top height. A higher clew will work but with reduced efficiency.
|This picture shows the control end, the tie point (cleat), the cheek block, and the cam cleat.|
|There are two ways the block can be strung. One way will naturally cause the face of the clock to rub against the cabin top. This way will naturally cause the lines to rub against the cabin top. This block is 4:1|
|The ring forms the 2:1 part of the cascaded 8:1 total purchase. With the defender ring and the slick amsteel, there is very little loss to friction. The line between the two carabiners is a single piece of Amsteel with eye splices. The loop you see here is a stopper knot and a luggage tag knot. This allows for some adjustment so that the port and starboard settings are the same.|
|I used a simple pad eye for the turning block. Again, the use of slick amsteel reduced the friction. The block should be placed just forward of athwartship of the aft end of the jib sheet knot so that you get maximum leverage. In my case, that should be about 10 inches forward of the mast for my 90% jib and 13.5J. If the inhauler is pulling forward at 30 degrees, your 8:1 purchase becomes 7:1. If the turning block is too far aft, assuming the sheet is still at cabin top height back there, the loss will be higher something like 5:1 if the turning is 6 inches aft of the clew. Basically, you want the inhauler to pull in level to the deck, perpendicular to the boat centerline, and near the clew. That said, the padeye turning block also needs to be far enough forward or off to the side so that the line going back to the ring will clear the mast.|
|This is a sketch of the inhauler connected to my 90% cabintop cut jib.|
|For reference, here is one of the old versions that shows using an inhauler to run this jib inside all the rigging except the forward lower. This greatly improved the pointing of this sail. I ultimately opted for a new sail and an inside track as shown in the sketch above.|
Ad by Google
I do not sell or share any user data or anything else for that matter. I do not keep site logs longer than I need to to keep bad actors off the site. Basically, I delete them after looking at them. If you are subject to CCPA, Google ads on this site will not be based on your past behavior so you will likely not see an ad for a lawn mower just because you looked for one at a big box website. I do not believe this site is subject to CCPA but I am doing what I can to follow the guidelines anyway.
The information on this web site has not been checked for accuracy. It is for entertainment purposes only and should be independently verified before using for any other reason. There are five sources. 1) Documents and manuals from a variety of sources. These have not been checked for accuracy and in many cases have not even been read by anyone associated with L-36.com. I have no idea of they are useful or accurate, I leave that to the reader. 2) Articles others have written and submitted. If you have questions on these, please contact the author. 3) Articles that represent my personal opinions. These are intended to promote thought and for entertainment. These are not intended to be fact, they are my opinions. 4) Small programs that generate result presented on a web page. Like any computer program, these may and in some cases do have errors. Almost all of these also make simplifying assumptions so they are not totally accurate even if there are no errors. Please verify all results. 5) Weather information is from numerious of sources and is presented automatically. It is not checked for accuracy either by anyone at L-36.com or by the source which is typically the US Government. See the NOAA web site for their disclaimer. Finally, tide and current data on this site is from 2007 and 2008 data bases, which may contain even older data. Changes in harbors due to building or dredging change tides and currents and for that reason many of the locations presented are no longer supported by newer data bases. For example, there is very little tidal current data in newer data bases so current data is likely wrong to some extent. This data is NOT FOR NAVIGATION. See the XTide disclaimer for details. In addition, tide and current are influenced by storms, river flow, and other factors beyond the ability of any predictive program.